Thread & Sewing Notions
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An examination of extant period woolen coats and smallclothes for
the common class of people and soldiers shows they were sewn together
with unbleached or undyed flax linen thread between 35 and 60 weight.
There are also records of linen thread of various colors being provided
to sew uniforms. Thus whether you sew together your coat or smallclothes
with natural or dyed thread in either case you are being authentic.
Buttonholes were worked using a heavier thread such as 16 or 20 weight
which would generally match the color of the cloth.
Besides flax linen thread it was common to use mohair wool thread to
construct cloth (ie wool) garments. Unfortunately mohair thread is not
available today. The next closest fiber in appearance is silk thread,
which is still available and was also used in period garments. As you
might expect, silk thread was often used in garments of the higher class,
but it does show up in common clothing as well.
Approximately 25 yards of thread is needed to assemble a coat, and an
equal amount to work the buttonholes.
If you are sewing a linen garment, then use a flax linen thread. For
example a shirt or shift would be sewn with a linen thread of the matching
color between 35 and 60 weight. The buttonholes and thread buttons would
use a heavier thread such as 16 or 20 weight.
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To order any linen thread: click on this PDF icon and follow the instructions
on the top of the page.
Linen Thread Order Form.pdf
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 Linen
handsewing thread, 40 weight, 2 ply, for finer work,
from Sweden. Top row: White, Cream (sold out), #470 Light Drab,
#3 Light Grey*, #44 Yellow*. Bottom row: #48 Scarlet (sold out),
#27 Dark Crimson* (pictured against Coca-Cola Red), #45 Navy Blue, #8
Medium Brown*, #9 Dark Brown (sold out). Importer
has discontinued the dyed colors, thus only a limited supply is available.
10 yard skeins $1.00
each.
33 yard skeins of all colors marked * are $2.50 each.
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 Linen
handsewing thread, 20 and 40 weight, 2 ply, from
Ireland.
Available in White, Natural (unbleached), Cream (half bleached), Burgandy,
Red, Navy Blue, Gold, and Green.
40 yard skeins are $3.
Also available in spools: 1650 yard spools in 20 weight or 3300 yard spools
in 40 weight.
The Natural and Cream spools are $17 for 20 weight, $24 for 40 weight;
and the colors in either 20 or 40 weight are $29.
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 Linen
handsewing thread, 35 weight, 2 ply, for finer work,
from Sweden. Top row: #5013 Buff (sold out), #454 Brown Drab*,
#503 Brown*, #702 Goldenrod*. Bottom row: #1007 Red (pictured against
Coca-Cola Red), #701 Dark Green*, #515 Light Blue*, #134 Sky Blue. Importer
has discontinued this line, thus only a limited supply is available.
10 yard skeins $1.00
each.
145 yard spools of colors marked * are $12.00 each. |
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Linen
handsewing thread, 16 weight, 2 ply, for coarser
work, from Sweden.
 #517
Crimson, #617 Medium Crimson, #259
Dark Crimson (replaces #635) All are pictured
against Coca-Cola Red).
 #144
Light Green, #8 Green, #492 Teal Green, #588 Forest Green.
#509 Beige, Natural, #503 Brown (sold out), #657
Dark Brown.
 #2030
Yellow, #639 Mustard Yellow, #1224 Light Grey, #605 Royal Blue
(sold out), #581 Dark Blue. Not pictured: White.
15 yard skeins $1.00
each.
600 yard spools of
#581 Dark Blue, and #510 Navy Blue are $13.00 each. |
New
- Silk Handsewing and Buttonhole thread
Silk handsewing thread is available in sizes A and B, which are nearly
identical in size.
Size A - 630 yard spool $16
Size B - 520 yard spool $16
Size B - 75 yard mini-spool $4
Silk buttonhole twist is available in Size #10 and Size F, which are identical
in size.
Size #10 - 25 yard pre-waxed skein $4
Size F - 25 yard mini-spool $4
Size F - 185 yard spool $16
The pre-waxed thread looks dark due to the wax. The wax wears away as
sewing, thus exposing the true color. Some of these thread skeins are
packaged in 25 one-yard lengths, which makes it easier to use.
Approximately
25 yards of thread is needed to assemble a coat, and an equal amount to
work the buttonholes. The available colors are matched to the Kochan and
Phillips Historical Textiles. See the Silk Thread Order Form for available
thread sizes and colors.
Silk Thread & Notions Order Form pdf
![[Hook & Eyes]](notions/hook-eye.jpg) Coat
hooks & eyes, large and are close in appearance to originals.
They are solid brass with a black finish. Hooks & eyes were used to
close the fronts of Regimental coats along the lapels and to hook together
the skirts. One package of 4 sets/$1.00
 Beeswax - pure
yellow beeswax. Beeswax should be applied to linen or silk thread prior
to sewing to help keep the thread from fraying or breaking.
| Small cake (1/8
oz) $.25 |
Medium cake
(1/2 oz) $1.00 |
Large cake (1
oz) $ 2.00 |
Sewing Needles
These are not authentic replicas, but modern large eye 'Sharps' needles
made in England by Richard Hemming & Son, and available in three sizes.
All packages come with a wire needle threader. $2.00 per needle package
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Size 3 (.033" dia x 1.740" long) - for bulkier
thread such as Size #10 or F silk buttonhole twist, or 16/2 linen.
15 needles per package. |
| Size 5 (.029" dia x 1.575" long) - for bulkier thread
such as Size #10 or F silk buttonhole twist, and 20/2 linen, but a
snug fit. 19 needles per package. |
| Size 7 (.026" dia x 1.450" long) - for finer thread such
as size B silk or 40/2 linen. 19 needles per package. |
 Wire
Needle Threaders
These are definately NOT a period item, but extremely handy when trying
to thread a needle in low light or a moving car. Package of five: $1.00
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