Shoes and Heel Plates

Click on images to enlarge them in separate windows.

To order Shoes and/or Heel Plates,
click on this PDF icon and follow the instructions on the top of the page.

Shoes Order Form.pdf

To care for your Shoes or Hi-Lo's, click on and print out this PDF document on Shoe Care.

Shoe Care pdf.

Mens Shoes - Made in Canada by Robert Land (www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com). We try to keep all sizes in stock, but occasionally we run out, so please email me with your size and width before you place your order. The sizes and widths available are listed with each type of shoe. No other sizes, widths, colors, smooth-out, custom orders, or womens sizes are available. To see if your size may be in stock please check the inventory list. I'll try to keep this updated, especially when I receive a new shipment, but it may not be accurate during campaign season when we bring shoes to events. However if the list doesn't show any in stock you can count on that being accurate.
Shoe and Hi Lo Inventory pdf.

The best way to buy shoes is in person, at an event. But if you must purchase by mail please be advised that unworn shoes can be exchanged for another size, however you will have to include $10 for return shipping. Shoes that are obviously worn cannot be returned or exchanged. So try on the shoes at home and wear them around the house. Make sure they are not too snug or loose, you don't walk out of the heel, your toes have room, etc...

I have been asked if a foot tracing would help in selecting the correct size shoe. It won't because there are other variables, for example, the ratio of arch (heel-to-ball) to overall (heel-to-toe) length, circumference around instep, circumference around ball, circumference around heel-to-instep. All of these may cause the shoe to fit or not. My advice is to visit a shoe store and have your foot measured with a Brannock Device. The device takes three measurements: heel-to-toe, arch, and width. Compare the heel-to-toe length to the arch length and use the larger of the two measurements as your shoe size. When measuring width, if you have a thick foot or high instep you may need a wider shoe than indicated on the device. Have your foot measured while sitting down because while standing the width may increase as much as 3/8". This would result in a new shoe that may feel perfectly comfortable when first worn, but inevitably leather shoes stretch from the strain of walking and the warmth and moisture of the feet, thus with a few days use the shoes may then feel big and loose. Getting shoes of the size indicated by the Brannock Device does not guarantee a perfect fit, but it increases the liklihood.

Shoe size/width relationship: There is a proportional relationship between length and width of shoe. With each increase in full shoe size (1/3") the width increases 1/4". Each increase in shoe width increases inside shoe circumference by 1/4". The system for measuring length was promulgated in 1324 at the behest of King Edward II. He decreed that three grains of barley were equal to one inch, and 12 inches equal one foot. So the standard measuring increment of a shoe is the length of a grain of barley, that is one-third of an inch is an increase of a full shoe size. American shoe sizes have a starting point of 8-19/32" (218 mm) from the heel, which is size 1. [English sizes begin 8-2/3" (220mm) from the heel.]

Nowadays it's become common see shoes sold with widths marked as M (Medium) or W (Wide). The M can be compared to the traditonal D width, and W compares to the EE width.

Shoe terminology:

Shoe side viewCrooked Shoes - These mens military shoes are heavy black cowhide leather, rough side out, with leather lining, clumped soles, and thick steel heel rims. Although they look like they are straight-last shoes these are made on right and left lasts, ie. crooked shoes. These shoes are like Robert Land's Williamsburg model, except these shoes have double thick soles with heel rims. So if you prefer a lighter weight shoe, or smooth out leather, please visit Robert Land's website. The latchets are 1½" wide. These shoes come in full and half sizes from 7 to 12, in D or EE width, and a few larger sizes (see the order form). Some sizes of Crooked Shoes are now in stock - see the Inventory PDF at the top of this page for availability. Many more should arrive in the coming weeks. If you want a pair currently not in stock, email me with your size and width, and I'll notify you when they arrive.

Shoe$105.00/pair without hobnails.

 

Shoe sole view Hobnailed shoes are no longer available.

Straight Last Shoes - These are welted mens buckle shoes with a single sole, which is typical 18th C. construction. See Sketchbook '76 pg. 22 for detail on welt construction. From a few inches away these shoes look identical to the crooked shoes. Since these shoes are single soled they are not available with hobnails (this may change as I am getting stubbier hobnails) and they do not have heel rims. The shoe uppers use the same heavy black, rough out leather as used on my other shoes. Straight last shoes are neither right or left foot until you break them in. These shoes are only available in E width, which is between a D and EE width, and in full sizes from 7 to 13. $115.00/pair Most sizes of Straight Last Shoes are out-of-stock. More may be available in August.

Compare Crooked and Straight last shoes.

Hi-Lo bootHi-Lo's - These mens ankle high shoes are heavy black cowhide leather, rough side out, clumped soles, and thick steel heel rims. Although they look like they are straight-last shoes these are made on right and left lasts, ie. crooked shoes. These come in full and half sizes from 7 to 13, in D or EE width (size 12 ½ EE unavailable). If you know which size and width of Robert Land crooked shoes fit you, then that same size of Hi-Lo's should fit as they are made on the same lasts. The photos are of prototype Hi-Lo's made in russet leather which made it easier to see the seam lines and details. The Hi-Lo's that I stock will be black. The Hi-Lo's are held closed by a single black leather thong (not pictured, but included) that is spiral laced.

Hi-Lo's were worn by some British officers as shown in Della Gatta's painting of Germantown and Paoli, by jockeys as shown in George Stubb's equestrian paintings, and by some Americans as documented by deserter descriptions in which they are called "half-boots". For the deserter descriptions see Charles Lefferts Uniforms of the 1775-1783 ... Armies, pages 77, 113, 134, 137.

$125.00/pair

18th C Womens walking shoeWomens Shoes  - Robert Land is working on recreating the shoe pictured here. The forward heel looks odd, but many womens shoes of the late 18th century were made this way. For reference see June Swann's book Shoes and the many shoes in the collection of the Costume Institute at the New York City Metropolitan Museum of Art. As of September 2007 Robert Land has yet to find a manufacturer for the heels that doesn't require ordering a thousand or so. When we do find a source and begin production I will update this website, so until then the womens shoes are not available nor do we have an approximate date or shoe cost.

Heel Plates, steel, for affixing to the heels of your shoes, they help prolong heel life. These heel plates are 1/16" thick, but are not an authentic reproduction of 18th C. heel rims. $4.00/set with proper nails (ie: 2 plates and 12 nails).

If you are purchasing a pair of Robert Land shoes you don't need these heel plates or heel rims because the shoes come standard with heel rims which should last several years. Heel plates are available in eight sizes, heel rims are no longer available. To determine which size you need, please download this .pdf file which has tracings of the plates and rims, and select the size that is the closest match to your shoe heels. The heel plate sizes do not correspond to shoe sizes and are not available in any other sizes than listed on the order form. Note that 7/8 is no longer available. The stamping die for size 7/8 cracked and the die will not be replaced.

Heel Plate pdf

Shoe Buckles - I don't have them, yet. Currently the best source is G.Gedney Godwin www.GGGodwin.com. Archeological finds have revealed there were two common military shoe buckles, one used by British and one used by Continental Army soldiers. The British buckle has been found from Burgoyne's route in upstate New York to Staten Island. Continental Army buckles have been found in many places in the Hudson Valley and one is pictured in Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia pg 53, top row, 2nd from left. This buckle also is often seen in museums such as Valley Forge N.H.P. and New Windsor Cantonment. Neither buckle is currently reproduced but someday I will make them.

Hobnails - Steel hobnails, similar to those found on 18th Century military shoe heels excavated at Fort Ligonier, Pennsylvania (c.1760's). Hobnails are mentioned in several runaway descriptions, ie.: "several of them have hobnails in their shoes", "shoes nailed all round, both heels and soles" (Maryland 1775); "hob-nailed shoes, with large square brass buckles", "a pair of hob nailed shoes with strings" (New Jersey 1776-79); "thick double soled shoes, tied with leather strings, small hob nails in the soles near the toe, and large ones in the heel" (Pennsylvania 1783). These hobnails are made in New England by the same company for over 175 years.

Until about 50 years ago hobnails were use by lumberjacks, foresters, and similiar trades. If you live in a forested area you might find hobnails stored away in old hardware stores. The army used hobnails in World War I and if you are near an army base you might find hobnails in nearby army surplus or hardware store.

Caution: Hobnails are great on dirt and grass, but make walking on pavement and floors very slippery. Use them at your own risk.

The nail mill may have a limited production run of very large ground head, cone head, and/or round head hobnails in 2008. The heads on these hobnails will be larger than those I picture below, and all will have a 1/2" long shank. If you wish to get in on this order please email me with they style and pounds desired. If there is enough interest all three styles will be produced, otherwise only one style may be made.

Large, Medium & Small Ground Head

Large Ground Head Hobnails

Medium Ground Head Hobnails

Small Ground Head Hobnails

Cone Head,
Large Round,
Medium Round,
Small Round

Cone Head Hobnails

Large Round Head Hobnails

Small Round Head Hobnails

Large Ground Head 40 per bag. Shank is 5/8" long, rectangular head is .12" high, .30 x .33" square. Sold Out

Medium Ground Head 50 per bag. Shank is 1/2" long, rectangular head is .11" high, .30 x .33" square. Sold Out

Small Ground Head 60 per bag. Shank is 1/2" long, rectangular head is .10" high, .25 x .30" square. Sold Out

Large Cone Head 100 per bag. Shank is 3/8" long, head is .13" high, .25" diameter.Sold Out

Large Round Head 50 per bag. Shank is 1/2" long, head is .12" high, .30" diameter. Sold Out

Medium Round Head 75 per bag. Shank is 1/2" long, head is .10" high, .25" diameter. Sold Out

Small Round Head 140 per bag. Shank is 1/2" long, head is .06" high, .18" diameter. Sold Out.

Q: How many nails in a 1 lb box?
A: Multiply the 2 oz bag quantity by 8.

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This site is maintained by Debra and
NewEngland Wolf Productions, first launched 5-9-98.