Linen Fabrics

Linen is a fabric is made of flax or hemp fibers. The finest flax linens came from Ireland and Holland. Coarser linens often came from the German states. Also from eastern Europe came hemp linens. Hemp linens were coarser than flax linens, but ounce for ounce they are much stronger and thus used for rope, tenting, sails, and canvas. The word canvas was derived from the Dutch word cannabis, which is hemp. The word Russia was also used in association with fabric made of hemp. Nowadays most hemp fabrics come from China, Poland or the Czech Republic.

If you have any doubts as to the suitability of these fabrics for your project please request swatches before ordering, as there are no returns on fabrics. For swatches please send us a SASE with your request of specific fabrics desired. Note: a maximum of three swatches per envelope. Swatches are free, and without a SASE, with any order.

Soldiers Shirting - off-white color, 7 oz/sq yd, 0.02" thick, 60" wide, $16.00/yd. This flax linen is nearly identical to that used on a common shirt, dating from the late 18th-early 19th Century, that we examined in a private collection. Approximately 2 1/3 yards required for a shirt, 4 yards for two shirts.

For comparison, the top fabric is Officers Shirting and bottom fabric is Cambric.

Cambric - white, 3 oz/sq yd, 0.01" thick, 60" wide, $29.00/yd. Coarser than Holland and Lawn, Cambric is suitable for shirt ruffles, ladies caps, or a very fine shirt or chemise/shift.

Russia Drilling - Natural beige color, 12 oz/sq yd, 0.04" thick, 61" wide, $19.00/yd. Thread size: 16/2 x 10. Weave density: 53 x 32 threads per inch. A strong hemp linen fabric in a twill weave. Drilling is an 18th C. term often used to describe a twill weave. This fabric is excellent for use in smallclothes. Approximately 1 ½ yds for waistcoat, 2 yds breeches, 2 ½ yds overalls/trousers.

Russia Drilling - Natural before (top) and after (bottom) washing with detergent and chlorine bleach.

Russia Drilling- White, 11 oz/sq yd, 0.03" thick, 60" wide, $19.00/yd. Thread size: 24/2 x 24/2. Weave density: 69 x 35 threads per inch. Tighter twill weave than on the natural drilling, and woven with a fine white yarn. This fabric is excellent for use in officers and civilian smallclothes. Approximately 1 ½ yds for waistcoat, 2 yds breeches, 2 ½ yds overalls/trousers.

Russia Drilling - Natural (top), White (bottom).

Russia Sheeting - off-white color, 14 oz/sq yd, 0.03" thick, 60" wide, $19.00/yd. Thread size: 10/2 x 10/2. Weave density: 34 x 24 threads per inch. This fabric is a close match to an 18th C. swatch in Stockholm Sweden identified as being tent fabric. Other uses for this fabric are spatterdashes, knapsacks, sailcloths, etc. Hemp linen readily absorbs water. To use this fabric for a tent or similar article I suggest you apply the Blue Magic Tectron brand of water repellent spray. For about $20 you can treat a whole wedge tent and the spray doesn't discolor the linen. If this sheeting had a glazed finish, which would help it shed water, it would be called Duck. Unfortunately a glazed hemp linen isn't currently available.

For comparison, the top fabric is Russia Sheeting and the bottom fabric is Russia Canvas.

Horsehair Fabric - for use in making neckstocks and cockades. This 20 inch wide fabric has been dyed black. The warp is cotton and the weft is black horsehair. Sold by the foot, and a limited supply is available. $10.00 per foot.