Woolen Cloth

Kochan & Phillips Historical Textiles
After many years of research on the cloth being produced and used for the 18th century military, James Kochan and Sean Phillips are having custom woven in England broadcloths and kerseys unlike any other cloth commercially available today. This cloth is woven using the instructions laid out in a notebook of a weaver who supplied the British Army in 1812 and made cloth to meet their specifications. This weaver's notebook specified every detail of manufacture, from the type of sheep used to create the yarn, to the weight and width of the raw cloth, to the fulling and napping procedures. To achieve authentic colors, spectral color analysis was used to create dyes to match the colors of original cloth swatches in museums, archives, and on original uniforms. The result is cloth that has the same appearance, weave, milling, finish and hard hand to cloth made in the late 18th century and that will wear and drape much better than any other cloth available today. If you are making a common enlisted mans uniform (not an officer) and want the most authentic cloth available, this is the cloth to use. If you need a color not stocked, even just a few yards, it can be provided for approximately $10 more per yard. Please inquire for more information.

Broadcloths are plain weave, approx 16-18 oz per square yard, .07" thick, and 50-56" wide. Kerseys are twill weave, approx 15-18 oz per square yard, .07" thick, and 50-56" wide. Broadcloth was primarily used to make uniform coats, civilian coats, and smallclothes. Kersey was used to make smallclothes, jackets, cloaks, watchcoats, and some of the French contract/lottery coats. Thus for many garments, the use of either broadcloth or kersey is authentic, and both will hold a raw edge. The broadcloth and kersey are well fulled and napped so you cannot see the weave on their top side, the broadcloth is also fulled and napped on the reverse side, whereas the kersey reverse side is finished so the twill weave is visible.

The Broadcloth and Kersey are $58.00/yd

Once all the cloth has arrived I will upload new photos.

Buff - Strong cloth for British or American facings and smallclothes. A color match to an original 1812 US Army Quartermaster samples of captured British buff cloth, and an original 1812 coat of the British 104th Regiment of Foot. 53" wide.

Deep Indigo Blue - Formerly listed as Dark Blue or Federal Blue. The blue cloth ordered by the various State and Continental agents from French, Dutch, and Spanish sources varied in shade. Not all blue cloth used by the Continental Army was French Royal Blue, though that shade was specified by written contract for the lottery coats. This shade of blue was used on coats worn by Gansevoort, Tilghman, civilians, and perhaps by many Continental units with blue regimental coats that were not part of the French 1778 and later contracts. This matches cloth samples for the Federal period, US Army uniform coats and trousers of the period 1806-1840's, and Royal Artillery cloth samples of the early-mid 19th century. 50" wide.

Grass Green - This shade of green broadcloth is a match to French-made patterns for the Continental Marines and Continental Light Dragoons, French dragoons and hussars, and an exact match to an original 18th C. German Jaegers coat, and the color of the Tarleton jacket. Many Provincial/Loyalist troops could use this green, though a darker full green cloth, which may be available in late 2008, may be preferable. The grass green color also is a match to an 1812 cloth pattern for the US Army, a circa 1810 NY militia rifle coatee, and an 1832 US Marine Corps coat. 56" wide.

Madder Red - Primarily intended for use on British regimentals. This shade of madder is the most common found on extant British military coats of the mid to late 18th C. This color is matched to three original British Army other ranks coats of the late 18th - early 19th C., and an original pattern swatch for British infantry coats, circa 1820, found in War Office records. Available in broadcloth. Out of Stock - more of this cloth is not expected until November 2008.

Dark Madder Red - Best for use in 1812 British regimentals, this broadcloth is also used by some recreated Rev War British units that wish a madder on the dark end of the acceptable madder color range. The color is obtained from a receipt for madder red published in 1809. Out of Stock - more of this cloth is not expected until November 2008.

Natural White - Excellent for smallclothes and coat facings. Available in broadcloth or kersey. The kersey matches original War of 1812 period US Army samples and also closely matched to British clothier patterns. Kersey was typically used for British other ranks vests and legwear during the 18th to early 19th century. 56" wide.

NOW AVAILABLE !

Bay - commonly used for coat linings (body and skirt) in the British and German marching regiments. Bay is plain weave, with a worsted warp and woolen weft. Warp is the thread that runs the length of the fabric, weft runs between the selvedge edges. Bay does not have a nap, unlike Baize which is like a thick flannel. Bay and Baize are quite different fabrics, and unfortunately the similiar sounding names were often misspelt and incorrectly used in period texts.

Unlike broadcloth and kersey, where you can lay out your pattern at slight angles to the warp, with bay you should lay out your pattern along the straight of goods (ie the warp). This is because the weft is shorter and coarser fibers, and thus relatively weak as compared to the warp. When setting in pockets, be sure to line around the pocket opening with Osnaburg or similiar fabric. This was done on an early 19th C. British army jacket we examined. This will help keep the bay from sagging or tearing.

Bay is now available in Natural White, Mock Scarlet, and British Blue. Buff and Madder Red bay should be available in early 2009, and maybe sooner. Bay is 52" wide, 5 oz/sq yd, .03" thick, $32/yd

Serge - natural white color, 8 oz/sq yd, 0.03" thick, 60" wide, $36.00/yd. From England, this is a lightweight worsted twill used for coat linings (body and skirt) for British Foot Guards, French, and some Continental Army regiments.


Officers White Melton Broadcloth - 12 oz/sq yd, 0.04" thick, 58" wide. An English plain weave cloth of nearly superfine quality. Excellent for officers and sergeants quality smallclothes and facings, this cloth can be used for garments with raw edges. Sold Out

Abimelech-Hainsworth Superfine
Superfine is a superior quality plain weave English cloth used by officers and gentlemen. It is made in various quality grades, with some grades much better than others in tightness of weave, ability to hold a raw edge, abrasion resistance, milled finish, how it drapes, and feels - ie its 'hand'. For much of 2007 Henry M. Cooke IV, a master 18th C. tailor and researcher of period costume, and I have compared swatches of various superfines. We determined the following two superfines are the highest quality currently available for 18th C. clothing